Western Deserts

The Western Desert is a vast expanse that starts at the western bank of the Nile and continues into Libya, covering over 681,000 square kilometers. It represents over two thirds of Egypt's total geographic area. The highlight of this region is the desert itself in all its rugged beauty and isolation. Scattered among this uninhabited terrain are five oases Bahariya, Farafra, Dakhla, El Kharga and to the northwest Siwa.

The desert between Farafra and Bahariya offers some of the most awe inspiring sites in the Western Desert; the snow-white rock formations shaped by the wind into the magnificent shapes of the White Desert, the eerie burnt outlook of the Black Desert and that of Crystal Mountain; made out of shiny rock quartz, making the Great Desert Circuit one of the finest adventures Egypt has to offer.

The circuit has only been accessible to the Traveler since 1980, when the first paved road linking the ineer oases was built. Since the best sites beyond the oases can only be reached by safari; it is recommended that the Traveler book a reputable safari operator in order to get the most out of what will no doubt be a magical experience.

Beside the natural beauty of the desert and its oases, the Western Desert is also a historical destination. The Western Desert is also a historical destination. The Western desert oases enjoyed a period of great prosperity during Roman times. Resulting in many ruins of temples, fortresses, chapels and tombs aroudn El Kharga and Bahariya just waiting to be explored!

As for the oases tehmselves Bahariya and Farafra remain basically desert villages subsisting on their crops of dates and olives while Dakhla and El Kharga have become modern towns.

The opening of the desert to modernization began in 1958 when President Nasser created the New Valley in hope of relieving some of the overpopulation along the Nile. The New Valley Governorate is the largest in Egypt with roads now connecting the previously isolated oases.

• Bahariya
• Farafra
• Dakhla
• El Kharga
• Siwa

Bahariya

Bahariya is the closest oasis to Cairo and the oldest in historical times dating back to the Middle Kingdom. It was a major agricultural center during Pharaonic Times.

A rich oasis because of its wine trade; Bahariya boasts a cemetery recently discovered where the mummies were covered in precious metals: the "Cemetery of the Golden Mummies". In 1911 and more recently in 2000, dinosaur bones were found there. Theses artifacts can now be seen in the Egyptian Geological Museum.

Farafra

Farafra

The smallest and most isolated oasis of the Western Desert, Farafra is the doorway for safaris to the White Desert.

In the quiet village of Qasr El Farafra with palm lined roads. The homes are traditionally decorated with verses from the Quran and murals depicting the inhabitants pilgrimage to Mecca.

Badr's Museum is a must see. Badr is the first of several artists to have been invited to show his work in museums around the world. his work depicts oasis life as it once was with its way of life and traditions.

Farafra, originally called "The Land of the Cows", even today the cows are of the same breed as those in pharaonic times. Farafra is a very fertile oasis with olive, date palms and lemon groves, irrigated by an oasis; of more than 100 flowing springs. Two of the springs that are very popular with residents and tourists alike are Ain Bishay; a bubbly Roman spring situated in a shady grove, and Bir Sitta, a sulfurous hot spring whirling in a Jacuzzi like tub.

Dakhla

Situated above sea level, Dakhla is a verdant cultivated area. Its history goes back to the Pharaonic times and several antiquities from the era remain there, plus some Roman and Coptic ruins.

Dakhla is the only place in Egypt where water wheels powered by buffalos are constructed.

The first hot air balloon to go around the world touched down in Dakhla in 1999.

You can also swim in the sulfur hot springs found near Deir Al Hagar.

Visit the citadel in the Old Town of Mut; Dakhla's capital, and Mut's Ethnographic Museum.

Go on half day or overnight excursions arranged at the local tourist office. Longer trips for exploring Gilf Kebir need six weeks notice and some paperwork has to be arranged in Cairo.

El Kharga

El Kharga

El Kharga is the largest and most developed of the oases. It has transformed itself from the traditional oasis to a modern and industrial town. Although El Kharga looks nothing like what one would imagine an oasis to look like, it is a pretty town with broad streets and lush gardens.

Because El Kharga was at one time the crossroad of richly laden caravans in need of protection against marauders, most of the ruins in the vicinity are fortresses and lookout towers dating from Greco-Roman times, up to the 1890's when the British occupied Egypt. There are many historical sites to explore around El Kharga, including; the Temple of Hibis dedicated to Amun, the Roman Temple of Nadoura, and the Necropolis of El Baqawat; an early Christian burial site, in the center of the site is a fifth century A.D. church, one of the oldest in Egypt. Moving further south, there are more Roman and Egyptian temples, an ancient church and a Turkish fortress. Further north excursions can be made to Qasr El Labeka, the largest fort in this oasis.

A fine collection of artifacts found on the sites of the ruins surrounding the oasis can be seen at El Kharga Museum.

Siwa

Isolated by hundreds of kilometers of desert, Siwa remained independent from Egypt until the 19th century. In 1820, troops led by Mohammed Ali forced Siwa to recognize Egyptian authority. The oasis consists of 10 small villages, where the favorite mode of transportation is still the donkey cart. The first paved road was opened in 1984.

Residents of Siwa speak a Berber tongue call Siwi and are proud of their identity and want to keep it that way.

Alexander the Great was the first known tourist and some claim he is buried there. Modern tourism began in 1988, when the sheer beauty of the oasis became renowned.

Cleopatra's Bath; Spring of Juba or Ain El Hammam, in the Siwa oasis is a deep pool full of curative waters. It is said Cleopatra would come and soak away teh tensions of being the Queen of the Nile here.

The pool is still there although looking very different than it did in Cleopatra's days. The very large tub, lined in ceramic tile and shaded by palm trees has been attracting locals and visitors alike because of the restorative powers of its waters.

There are also several interesting sites to be visited, the old town of Shali dating back to the 13th century and the Temple of the Oracle. Excursions can also be organized to both the White and teh Black deserts, all worthwhile experiencing.

Not to be overlooked is the local handicraft. Recently the women of Siwa have been commisioned to stitch traditional embroidery for an Italian couture house. Look for them on a fashion runway in Milan soon!

Ladies remember to dress modestly; Siwans are traditional and very conservative.